Why Is It So Hard To Find The Perfect Nightwear?

embroidered heart

It began with a pair of Ladybird’s, I’m pretty sure of that. In a cosy brushed cotton with little flower motifs. It wasn’t like there was a whole lot of choice back then – I mean are they even still around, Ladybird?

Google says yes and there they are, £7.20 at Mothercare. In fact the brand that first appeared on UK rails in 1938 is now owned by Shop Direct, the UK’s largest online retailer.  It survived the retail armageddon and is now the third largest kidswear brand in the UK, with a growing market share of 5%.

Seriously, who knew?

Boarding school at 11 meant progressing onto regulation winceyette nighties from M & S.  This was a Catholic convent and girls didn’t usually wear PJs in the 70s,  gender stereotyping being still mandatory back then. Here I really need to give you a bit of a history of ‘winceyette’ because it was one of my mother’s favourite words, along with ‘Axminster’ carpets, both of which occupy the part of my brain where Horlicks, Angel Delight and Top of the Pops reside.

Traditionally, winceyette is a cotton fabric made from a twill weave, with a design similar to flannel only slightly thinner and more breathable. For those familiar with weaving (yep, no-one), the weft is closer than the warp.  So, that’s winceyette, which along with collywobbles, it’s probably one of the best  British words ever.

But the perfect fabric for nightwear? Maybe as a child in the perma-frost that was 70s central heating, but it was neither attractive nor stylish. (Fortunately teens had little idea of either concepts back then.)

Throughout my twenties I travelled the world and can’t remember ever wearing anything in bed beyond a succession of t-shirts. Maybe even the odd boyfriend’s shirt, the operative word being odd. These were the days well before Netflix and chill and loungewear was unheard of.

It wasn’t until my wedding night in my 30s that I invested in a sheer back spaghetti-strapped night slip from Fenwicks, which at about three in the morning I remember being absolutely determined to get into.  I’m looking at it right now and has a definite baby doll aura to it.  As such it usually reposes in the nothing-within-is-ever-worn drawer, next to two Hermes silk scarves and some dodgy patterned tights. The label says “Only Hearts N.Y.C. Helena Stuart”. A quick look on the internet and it appears they have gone out of business, natch.

The baby doll moment heralded a long decline into voluminous, cosy pyjamas as the child-rearing years beckoned and were spent reposing in bed or reclined on the sofa.  I was never a fan of nighties – they invariably ended up round your armpits in the middle of the night, and not in a good way. Or made you channel Cherie Blair the-morning-after-the-Labour-victory-the-night -before in 1997, when she famously opened the door in her blue Next nightie and knobbly knees.

Earlier generations obviously wore nothing else. When my mother died, I found a long handmade nightdress I initially presumed had been sewn by my grandmother. On reflection, it was probably the work of her seamstress.  Mary was the eldest of eight from an Irish family and by the time she married, she was so done with domesticity that she only had one child and promptly fled to India and a house full of servants. This solitary family heirloom, (all her jewellery was stolen in the 80s) which I have also unearthed, still smells of that Victorian cure-all, camphor oil. It is made of the palest cream silk with a lattice of embroidery on the bodice (fagotting to those in the know), and a tiny heart-shaped pocket on the left hip. Every single seam is delicately hand sewn, a eulogy to an age when nightwear was treasured and not worn as flotsam to shop in at Tesco’s. I have never dared put it on and darkly fantasise about one day being buried in it.

Which is not to say I haven’t had some success with recycling long-lost nightwear. For the birth our first child, I took a massive pair of white linen jimmy-jams from the Italian label 120% Lino into hospital and found them again only recently, 18 years on. A new length elastic around the waistband, a 90 degree  wash and they’re as good as new. Flattering? Not so much, as I’m about two stone lighter.

For a few years, I quite liked my pink flannelettes from The White Company before they suddenly turned shrunken and hard. Then there were the brown silky pjs that had weird fastenings. A pair of DKNY grey brushed cotton ones from Costco (£13) last winter are super comfy but the trousers end halfway up my shins, and not in a cool, cropped way.

Less practical but more stylish are my Olivia von Halle navy blue heavy silk pyjamas, which I was persuaded to fork out £150 for (which included a 50% discount) during my foray on Planet Fashion. Yet they are cut so slim across the back that the silk has been stretched and I hardly wear them any more in case one final midnight toss-and-turn will precipitate a rip. For wafting around posh hotels only.

This week, one of my favourite bloggers and fellow journalist Esther Coren, also on a quest for the perfect pyjamas, highlighted a great-looking pair from Jigsaw – random, no? – and only £45.  Navy, fave colour, a bit of piping, cropped in a good way and roomy.

But could they handle these now warm summer nights? A recent buy from Zara Home of a shirt/shorts PJ combo erred on the decidedly damp side come morning.

When it’s really hot or on our annual sojourn down to the Gulf of Mexico, I reach for a couple of eberjey bamboo viscose nighties my sister-in-law introduced me to. They’re slightly too short and have the riding up problem, but stick them on some tanned legs and there’s a flatteringly cool LA feel about them.

Most likely to actually keep you looking and feeling cool is a new brand called Cucumber with high tech fabric that wicks away moisture and lasts six times longer than cotton. I’ve yet to try them but they have the Lisa Armstrong seal of approval and come navy and cropped.  Win, win. (I do have their matching sleep mask  which is the best £20 I’ve spent this year).

Short of ever finding the perfect nightwear, my dream scenario would be to live in the tropics and spend nights between 400 plus thread count sheets and nothing else. If our bedroom wasn’t at the back of a draughty Victorian terrace with a 20 foot pitch ceiling, I would. Because there is something wholly luxurious about lying between heavenly fabric ironed to within an inch of its life.

A quest for the perfect bedlinen, you say?  Don’t get me started…

Jackie Annesley is Creative Director of SODA, which sells cool tech stuff that works. 

A Life In Handbags

jimmy cho hand bag

Can you imagine a world without handbags? Diana Vreeland, the legendary American Vogue editor once did. She came up with the idea that women should dress more like men. The keystone to her thinking was “no more handbags”. Women, she decided, should wear shirts with big pockets, jackets with big pockets, skirts with big pockets. It was all about putting the world in your pocket. She began rushing around preaching her new creed, but no one liked it (funny that).

For one thing, everyone panicked that leather factories would suffer. Others pointed out that bulging pockets would hardly improve the silhouette of their clothes and frankly, women had far more to cart around than men anyway. But what really persuaded her to back off was that handbags are such a powerful fashion statement.

Love them or loathe them, there’s little getting away from a handbag if you want to carry more than your credit card and a mobile phone. In recent decades, handbags have become a powerful sartorial statement, infinitely revealing of a woman’s life: Margaret Thatcher referred to her handbag as her “trusty companion”, while it was a “handbag” that the architect  Zaha Hadid cited as the one object she travelled with to make her hotel room “feel her own”.

For better or worse, handbags have become a social signifier of who we are and perhaps who we want to be, the subject of intense consumer desire, more revealing than our choice of shoes or even our winter coat (and in recent years,  certainly more expensive).  They are an icon of our post-modern globalised culture, handbags are venerated and ridiculed in equal measure. The best ‘origin of a bag’ style surely goes to Louis Vuitton’s Noe which was designed in 1932 and created to hold five bottles of champagne.

The relationship we have with our handbags fascinates me endlessly. Researching ‘Handbags’ a new Vogue book, I was tickled to read that the former British Vogue editor, Alexandra Shulman had once described her bag (in the context of a piece that Vicki Woods was writing) as “ vile inside with crumbling cigarettes, chewing gum, receipts and pens that leak.” I’m sure many can identify with that – I know I certainly can. And yet, as Woods herself admitted, if a man’s hand goes near her handbag – even the man she’s been married to for years – she goes into a kind of rape-alert mode and squawks. It seems that women’s handbags are public on the outside, utterly private within.

Thankfully we’re over that ridiculous era in the mid-Noughties when sales of handbags rose by a dizzying 146 percent, inspiring a period of ridiculously long waiting-lists, price tags rising north of £1000 (yes, really!) and when nothing was too blingy, logo-ed or laden down with designers hardware (a silly notion in itself and at times weighing up to 10kg). It’s when bags started to wear women (and could be spied from 50 paces) rather than the other way round.

We may no longer live in the It-bag era, but it’s foolish to think we don’t care about our handbags, we will forever have to carry around general paraphernalia and will wish to do so in plenty of style.

I love a designer bag as much as the next person (and in my life as a former newspaper fashion editor, I’ve certainly been gifted my fair share) but like the stylist Bay Garnett, I’m very partial to classic ones that look a little bit beaten up. I don’t like the idea of a bag being held up in front of the person as a status symbol. I prefer it when they look part of someone’s life and wardrobe.

The lesser known Hermes Plume style remains high on my lust list. Luckily it has inspired a rash of alternatives, notably from the highly covetable Japanese label, Art & Science. No one needs 56 bags and all in the name of research I’ve whittled the ultimate wish list (the foundation of a great bag wardrobe) down to four, maybe five styles.  Bags which will last for years and see you through every outfit and eventuality.

A top handle bag or a classic stealth wealth style

This screams ‘business’ in the boardroom but is low key enough to be carted to the farmer’s market at the weekend with some degree of anonymity. Prada Galleria’s style or Anya Hindmarch’s Ebury are investments which will last for years.

The milestone/big ‘O’/first pay check bag

Mine would be Chanel 2.55, the quilted Chanel bag with its “recognisable-from- a-mile off braided chain handle” and rectangular clasp. It’s arguably the status symbol of all time when it comes to bags. And yet, it is testament to Karl Lagerfeld’s genius that he has endlessly reinvented them so that they are still the most coveted bags, worn by fashion’s inner sanctum and yet still very much desirable among CEOs, uber-coiffed Madam Chirac types and affluent mums on the school run.

A tote shopper

Something pleasingly utilitarian and for everyday which is lightweight and easily holds your gym kit, food shop and yesterday’s green juice. Alaia’s laser cut tote is dreamy, more practical perhaps on the bank balance is Mansur Gavriel, which comes in a myriad colours.

Raffa/leopard/patent

These are classic fabrics which you will wear again and again. Invest in the best quality versions you can afford. Choose wisely and be smug for years to come.

And something a little bonkers

Again a crisp packet minaudiere, Moschino’s McDonalds drink carton bag or Jimmy Choo’s pink Lockett Petite may seem highly indulgent purchases but like point four, these are actually classics: talking points at a dull cocktail party and guaranteed to put a smile on everyone’s face, including yours.

P.S. And finally, nothing looks more ageing than carting around an oversized, logoed bag as if it was your pet Cockapoo, worse still, while in your gym kit. Just don’t.

Vogue Essentials: Handbags, £15 Amazon.co.u

 

image courtesy of Jimmy Choo

How To Find The Perfect Pair Of Trousers

stack of jeans

I know, trouser shopping isn’t top of my list either. Mostly because it turns out we would all far rather be shoe shopping. Who wakes up on a Saturday morning thinking, “yippee, the chance to spend all afternoon in a cramped, badly lit changing room, craning my neck to check out my behind.

It’s up there with bikini or bra shopping which is a pity really because little else does the hard yards in your wardrobe as deftly as a pair (okay then, several pairs) of trousers.

Despite the style glossies debating asymmetric hems, ruffles skirts or ditsy print floral dresses, most women wear trousers most of the time. I know I do. What else ticks off flexible, practical, stylish, time-efficient or covers up hairy legs? Buy a classic pair and they can be re-invented season after season. The right trousers look easy and will make you look youthful, polished and that you haven’t tried too hard (which is harder than you think). I’m not going to lie to you though, unless you have a boyish figure, finding trousers that fit well can be an arduous task.  It’s why many women – especially those on the curvier side – give up at the first hurdle. But forewarned is forearmed and hopefully this ten point checklist will take a lot of the pain out of trouser shopping. Read More…

The Marvelous Mrs Maisel

Image courtesy of Amazon Prime Video

When TV offers a more thought provoking take on women’s clothes than designers, it’s time to hit refresh


Most people in decent societies would agree (above the line at least) that a woman should be able to wear whatever she likes without being jumped on. But, as we’re finally beginning to acknowledge publicly, what we wear has consequences.

Clothes matter. They can offend in their sloppiness, their ostentatiousness and their lack (or excess) of modesty. Alternatively, they can seduce entire nations, as when a visiting Duchess wears a maple leaf hat in Canada, or a First Lady chooses British for a rendez-vous in London. Read More…

Spring Refresh

carolyn asome coat rack

What can I tell you about clothes at the dawn of 2018. That you had better get in there quick. T.S Eliot wasn’t joking when he said April was the cruellest month. Although he possibly wasn’t talking about the crushing realisation that anything you have vaguely coveted in the style glossies has probably sold out.

Not that I’m counselling you to buy a whole new wardrobe in February mind. No one but no one (unless you are an oligarch’s moll) buys an entirely new wardrobe each season and certainly no one I’ve ever met with an iota of style. Still, we all want to buy things that will add vim and verve to our existing wardrobes; a few judiciously on pointe items that will make everything else sing -and believe me they don’t hang around. Don’t underestimate the keen eye that is required for changing proportions and attention to detail detail detail although just as important is whether any of it actually suits us, an easily overlooked fact in the race to bag the latest trend.

Read More…