With four products now launched, CAIS, MMHC, Photography Fluid and Lip Bio-Lip Concentrate, the NIOD journey enters its second phase. We have three new products launching this month, so let’s start with Hydration Vaccine (HV). Please explain the product, what it does and when we should be using it?
Water is like oxygen; very little desire for it exists until it’s absent and then it becomes the only priority in mind. I am very much against most products that mention the word “hydration” for the very reason that they suggest to “hydrate” the skin, which generally means increase the water content within skin cells. First, most hydrating products are mainly using oils to provide this “hydration” so I am not sure where water comes into play. Second, the water content of topical products usually evaporates on the surface – otherwise we would just hydrate our skin by sitting in the bathtub. Third, because the skin repels water (and actually attracts oils, counter intuitively) the skin will likely repel anything that claims to deliver skin hydration (meaning water) topically. And fourth, because the part of the skin that matters most is made up of live cells that generally are very happily filled with a lot of water and do not need “hydration”. These reasons are why DECIEM brands do not offer typical moisturizing products.
Summarizing the above, the skin’s live cells are happily surrounded with water that your body supplies and the most important (if not the only relevant) “hydration” approach to take is to keep them happily surrounded with water, which is what Hydration Vaccine does. It’s a vaccine that sits on the surface to seal precious natural hydration below the surface, and to encourage its production and consistent flow. There are so many depths to this simple product that would require hours of explanation but in simple terms, the product encourages formation of natural hydration, seals this hydration in and seals the environment (pollution, chemicals, bacteria) out. It works instantly but, in less than two weeks, one really starts to see how much of a difference in ageing simple natural hydration can actually make.
The Natural Moisturising Factors (NMF) in this formulation are shown to increase markers of youth within the skin incredibly efficiently. How long will it take to see visible results and will those results be long-lasting?
One of the best and well-known (not new to NIOD) ways to increase natural hydration is to offer excess NMF to the skin and one of the many things HV does is provide very excessive amounts of NMF. NMF increase alone has been shown in studies to make the skin look up to 20 years younger in eight weeks. This known technology works with an array of biotechnology and marine derivatives to increase skin’s production of youth and hydration markers, while a range of very advanced silicones ensure the hydration is sealed in and the bad things are sealed out. (I am very heavily and irrevocably in deep love with silicones because the world has completely misunderstood them and they are simply perfect molecules.) The product also makes you look incredible instantly and I cannot think of a better base for make-up. I am confident no one will ever use a primer again if they use HV.
Hydration Vaccine incorporates technologically-advanced silicones, which you believe to be the most misunderstood group of incredible substances in skincare; why and what is their role in this product?
Silicones are perfect molecules in that they have no impurities and we completely understand their structure. They represent a very large class of chemicals and because some annoyed editor, somewhere, some day, in some language, wrote some things bad about one single silicone, the whole world has gone mad against thousands of absolutely perfect molecules and gone in search of some magical natural leaf extract that is going to do the very unnatural thing, that is to reverse ageing. In short, I love silicones and they continue to evolve very rapidly. We have used some extremely advanced forms that other brands will have heard of for the first time only after buying HV this month to copy it. These silicones provide the absolute perfect seal, the absolute perfect blurred finish, the absolute perfect level of skin comfort and will make make-up unbelievable. They form a structure that goes from thick to very liquid and back to thick within minutes so they can offer maximum play time (even through to make-up application) before they start to seal. You can experience this effect by shaking the jar vigourously. The product will become very thin and then get thick again within a few minutes.
Low-Viscosity Cleaning Ester (LVCE)
You have stated that you don’t like cleansers, yet here we are, launching a cleanser. An explanation of that statement please.
We are not launching a cleanser. We are launching a cleaner because it actually cleans everything including make-up in one step. I don’t use cleansers and never have. The benefit cleansers offer, more than water would generally, does not justify the harm they cause in removing all the protective substances that act as skin barriers. In fact, people in very poor countries who never wash their face with anything more than water generally have very dense, healthy skin because the skin is less exposed to the environment. Having said this fact, I also don’t wear make-up and it is important to remove makeup completely if you do wear it and so good cleaners are very necessary.
It goes without saying that NIOD’s LVCE doesn’t foam and contains no surfactants of any kind. LVCE is not in the form of an overly-pleasant massaging oil balm that makes you go to a mediocre imaginative momentary heaven and back because the purpose of LVCE is not such––its purpose is to clean without damaging skin barrier––and it is extremely efficient at doing this task. It uses skin and eye-friendly esters including a unique sugar-derived ester alongside a superb avocado biotechnology complex to bind to dirt, dyes, pigments and pollution, but to leave the skin intact. This cleaner can be used without any water (used with a simple cloth or cotton balls instead) or, if used with water (which I would), it must first be applied to dry face generously before rinsing (and it comes in a generous amount for the face––240ml). It’s very thin and I am sure people will have an opinion about its viscosity. And I have a very strong opinion against making efficient things inefficient so that people won’t have an opinion about their viscosity.
After using LVCE, the skin feels extremely comfortable but this comfort comes with a very odd and unexpected benefit. The technologies in LVCE will actually act as delivery systems for topical products applied after cleaning so while you feel as though your skin is too comfortable to absorb anything well afterward, everything will in fact go in more easily.
Many cleansers claim to remove every scrap of make-up and dirt, why is Low-Viscosity Cleaning Ester different?
Because LVCE actually does. And while you see your make-up disappear today, what will appear in a few weeks is actually extremely pure skin that never looked so clean and even. The avocado biotechnology used in LVCE actually interacts with the skin to normalize the protective barriers in case they’re in excess. The clinical results are astonishing. (Oh and if you’re sensitive to avocados, you won’t be sensitive to LVCE- that is the difference between biotechnology and some farm selling handmade avocado balms).
Is this cleaner suitable for all skin types?
No. Some people believe that cleansers that dry the skin out to the point of discomfort will make their skin better. We won’t win against that psychology. Otherwise, yes, all skin types from the driest to the oiliest, most congested skin types. (There won’t be enough room here for me to express my thoughts about what the industry classifies insultingly as “normal” skin.)
Fractionated Eye Contour Concentrate
With 28 cutting-edge scientific technologies, this super-concentrated serum is a ‘first’ on so many different levels; can you briefly explain some of those ‘firsts’ and does FECC cover all aspects of eye ageing?
On surface analysis, there is nothing concentrated about this serum; in alignment with NIOD’s position that multi-approach treatments are ideally proposed in low viscosities to facilitate better absorption, this oil-free serum has the viscosity similar to that of a light oil. A deeper look reveals that the serum is so concentrated that the lab could barely find room for the free water necessary to make the formulation feasible. This serum targets nearly every aspect of eye aging with shorter, medium and longer-term effects. 28 technologies at a near 100% total concentration target:
- Dynamic line formation through acting on small-twitch muscular contractions (unlike deep injections that target deeper, stronger muscles but unable to target more superficial near-surface movements under the eyes)
- Static line formation through prevention of multiple aspects of aging associated with stress, pollution, oxyradicals, cabonylradicals, inflammation (from peeling or other skincare) and over-use of make-up
- Dynamic and static line prominence through increasing the skin’s content of hydration, collagen, hyaluronic acid (HA) and select lipids. This “filling” effect is not to be mistaken for the increased amount of water and/or fat under the eyes seen in the form of bags. These contents are under the skin not part of the skin itself which is the target of this specific “filling” effect
- Upper and lower eyelid elasticity through specific focus on elastin content renewal and increase, as well as skin renewal markers without peeling or inflammation;
- Dark circle formation and prominence through encouraging circulation around the upper and lower eyelids without the use of caffeine; (Two important considerations: a) dark circles must not be mistaken for shadow lines under the eyes created by a gap between fatty upper cheek tissues and hollows under the eyes – no topical treatment can target this shadow and this genetic shadow is not referred to as a dark circle; b) caffeine encourages immediate circulation for an effect against dark circles, which is why nearly every eye treatment uses caffeine but caffeine also reduces fat deposits under the skin, which in the case of eyes, can encourage the shadow mentioned above in the long term, making the eye appear aged)
- Puffiness formation and prominence through immune markers that increase fluid movement under the eye area
- Texture improvement and maintenance – through the use of multiple technologies for a) non-inflammatory increase of skin turnover; b) pore size normalization markers; c) skin tone evenness without relation to melanin formation (but existing excess melanin deposits are targeted as they can contribute to dark circles caused by lack of circulation despite previous beliefs); d) increase of collagen, HA, water and select lipid content within the skin; e) increase of skin density; f) increase of skin immunity.
The technologies include a wide array of modern peptides including a first-ever cyclic peptide for adhesion to specific cells previously impossible, specific biotechnology including purified polyphenols and bio-derivatives, multiple marine and marine ferment complexes and multiple forms of HA and HA marker enhancers.
The product is to be applied on the upper and the lower eyelids twice daily. One drop covers both eyes as the product offers lasting slip. A moisturizer is not required to be applied afterward but, if applied, should be done so 20 seconds or more after application.
FECC incorporates ‘drone-technology’; just how scientific does an eye product need to get?
The “drone” technology takes actives into specific areas within the skin. It is extremely difficult to work with and we almost launched FECC without it (Gill knows better than anyone). The concern in the recent days with skincare has been to ensure actives can actually get into the skin, but equally important is to ensure each active reaches the specific skin function it plans to target. The drone technology is focused on purely this task. Each drone (for each type of delivery) is a very different thing. And the eye area has too many components to target (non-expression ageing, expression lines, dark circles, puffiness, upper eyelid droop) and they all need really very different technologies. I can’t put into words how happy I am that we managed to use this technology in this very difficult, overly-delayed formula.
What are the short, medium and long-term results?
Short term refers to results you can see within the first week: improved texture, reduced dynamic fine lines, reduced puffiness. Medium term refers to results you can see and expect within the first four weeks and includes reduced dark circles, reduced static lines and wrinkles, and increased immunity. Long term results refers to all of the effects seen earlier but to a peak extent and these results, while similar in appearance, are derived from far deeper functions in the long term. For example, many peptides deliver visible results against dynamic lines within the first two-three weeks but the initial results are largely superficial. Many biotechnology and marine technology actives continue to work below the surface to reduce these same lines visibly––but instead through increased production of collagen, HA and through increased circulation and immunity. FECC also includes a very specific, first-ever technology to focus on a visible lift in the upper eyelid area. This effect would also fall other the “long-term” focus and appears within four-six weeks.
All NIOD products launched to date have been hugely acclaimed across the press and the brand has been dubbed as ‘brave new skincare for a brave new world’. Knowing that this is a deeply personal journey for you, what has been your proudest moment since NIOD launched in May of this year?
There never really was a proudest moment – instead I and our team have been so fortunate to feel small but very significant bits of pride every minute. Notwithstanding this very truth, NIOD is so deeply humbled that it has had a guardian like Gill behind its launch. NIOD is a brand with deep values – and just like people with deep values – the brand is too humble to be proud (and is in a way quite fragile) knowing that there are very very few people in the world who will appreciate how much dedication stands behind it. I, we and NIOD will never be able to reflect back the love Gill has shown us even in the harshest of times.
And finally, a message from you to all NIOD devotees. Speak Brandon, speak!
It takes significant courage to disregard the path everyone follows and take your own. Even the strongest of us will face doubt when we stand for what we believe is right – and this doubt is far more powerful when you navigate an industry that is all about wrong. The beauty business is largely run by executives who have never used beauty products but are full of opinions about the industry – and the one and only thing that has allowed us to disregard the established norms is the only thing that matters: that there are people who recognize our dedication. I am really very deeply grateful for this recognition. Thank you.